Denitrator

[n00dl3]

Anyone here use a denitrator in there zebra tank?

I am thinking of using a denitrator in my zebra tank to reduce nitrate and ammonia level. Is this a good idea? By using a denitrator I can reduce the water change in tank which will reduce the stress for the zebras. Or using a denitrator while still maintaining my regular water change to promote even more healther water condition for the zebras.

Is this a bad or good idea?

n00dl3

[dave]

I don't see any harm in using one, but I also don't think there is that much to gain.

In addition while it will reduce nitrate, who knows what other substances are left in the water that we do not test for, there will be a build up if the water changes are reduced.

To me there is no substitute for water changes.

It is unlikely that stress will be caused, water changes and changes in temperature induce breeding (Hardly a sign of stress).

There are a lot of posts on this site about things such as RO, adjusting PH and who knows what else.

L46's will breed in hard water, soft water, acidic and alkaline as long as extremes are avoided. These are not Discus, Tropheus or L255's which are sensitive.

Save yourself the additional expense.

Dave

[Barbie]

Yeah, what dave said!

Not to mention that while it's removing nitrate, it's not removing dissolved organics or other potential problem compounds that can be building up in the water. I have still never heard of anyone losing a zebra from not doing a water change but they definitely have lost them when they didn't!

Barbie

[CDNAqua]

I agree with Dave and Barbie there is no substitute for water changes.

However I have experimented with Tetra easy balance and saw a definite perk to the fish when used. Easy Balance has trace elements and vitamins wich may benifit your fish.

Easy balance and products like it may most benificial to you for your holiday time and have a friend looking after fish who aren't so fish friendly.

I myself wouldn't trust many folk to do a water change on my zebs while I was away.

[dave]

Depends on how long you are going on holiday for.

You can leave most fish for 2 to 3 weeks if adults or semi adults.

Just don't make the mistake of over feeding before you go, also a water change before you go.

As for RO? why, your taking things out just to put them back with additives.

And once again these fish breed in hard water, soft water, PH 6 to 8, and if people tried to breed in PH ranges outside the above range, no doubt they would succeed.

You may well succeed using your methods, but just as likely without RO and additives so why complicate matters.

Dave

[Alistair]

Some times people are forced in to using RO, de-ionised or distilled water due to contaminants such as phosphate and metals. One of my brother in-laws has to use de-ionised water due to the level of zinc in his water.

But I would still partially agree with Dave, if the water is ok just do regular water changes to remove the nitrate, and any other hidden nasties from fish metabolism.

I am a big believer in two old adages 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' and 'keep it simple stupid'.

[McEve]

Depends on how long you are going on holiday for.

You can leave most fish for 2 to 3 weeks if adults or semi adults.

Just don't make the mistake of over feeding before you go, also a water change before you go.

Agreed! Absolutely

As for RO? why, your taking things out just to put them back with additives.

I'm not sure I understand this one.... RO water is very soft, having had minerals removed from the water through the process. What do you mean taking things out just to add them back?

And once again these fish breed in hard water, soft water, PH 6 to 8, and if people tried to breed in PH ranges outside the above range, no doubt they would succeed.

It is true that they have been bred in a variety of water conditions. However, there is a suspicion out that some deformities can stem from too hard water....

Just because they breed doesn't mean the offspring is healthy unless the water conditions are good, and right, as well as the initial nutrition!

[dave]

In CDNA's post, he stated he was adding trace elements, by this I think he was selective about the elements he was adding, and this was following removal of any already present by RO.

From what I recall of Barbies post, and I may be wrong and without trawling the whole site I can't be certain, but I think she stated she used 50% RO and 50% tap water to induce breeding.

As for water quality, my first two fry were born after a period of neglect, one a snub nose, the rest seem ok. I also checked the other 9 F1's that I bought 1 more snub nose, that makes 4. If I have males and females I will try and breed from them, if genetic I assume I will get more snub noses, if all normal I'll assume water quality. Not definitive I know.

Dave

[Barbie]

I actually use 100% RO to induce breeding. The fish end up in VERY soft water to spawn, lower than 100 ppm TDS. Hardness isn't the issue, at least with the snubnosed fry I've had anyway. I also have pictures of my last spawn of 15 fry, 2 were snubbed at about 2 months. By the time they were 7 months 5 were snubbed. I had been, up until now, taking the fry and raising them separately from the parents. From now on they will be left with the adults and see if that affects it. I've already redisigned my cave shape, also, to keep the fry from being mashed. I do wonder if it has to do with the small areas in the condos I was keeping them in not giving them room to "run" and feel secure. It's a truly miserable learning curve .

Barbie