Preparing water changes

stripeythingy · Post by **stripeythingy** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 8:18 pm

I prepare my water for water changes by adding a chemical dechlorinator, the water is then run through an internal filter containing polyfilter. Does anybody else prepare there water in a similar way.

Mindy · Post by **Mindy** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 8:14 am

I have an RO unit, so I don't need the polyfilter setup. Does that help get the nitrates and stuff out? Do you do tests before and after filtration? I'd be interested to know what sort of results you get with that. How long do you leave it for? If nothing else, it will be good in that it keeps the water circulating and oxygenated which will be good when adding it to the tank.

Post by **Barbie** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 4:46 pm

I just hook the python to the tap and run it into the tank

. I add dechlorinating drops as the water starts to flow in. Our tap water is pretty good here, but I've used tap water in most of my tanks as I've moved around with good luck. If your water is heavily saturated with CO2 out of the tap, then I do recommend aeration in another container to allow the pH to stabilize, or at least always doing small volume changes more frequently. Unless you notice your fish acting distressed when you're doing water changes from the tap, I personally don't worry about it and my fish breed anyway, without all that extra loving care

.

Barbie

stripeythingy · Post by **stripeythingy** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 6:55 pm

Mindy wrote:I have an RO unit, so I don't need the polyfilter setup. Does that help get the nitrates and stuff out? Do you do tests before and after filtration? I'd be interested to know what sort of results you get with that. How long do you leave it for? If nothing else, it will be good in that it keeps the water circulating and oxygenated which will be good when adding it to the tank.

I run 4 gallons through a Fluval 1 internal filter for 48 hours this takes nitrate down from 10ppm to 2 - 5 ppm, it does not effect PH at all. I have not tested for other impurities, and do not test after every filtration.

Post by **Barbie** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 8:07 am

I'm confused, why would running water through a biological filter reduce nitrate levels?

Barbie

Raul-7 · Post by **Raul-7** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 8:41 am

Barbie wrote:I'm confused, why would running water through a biological filter reduce nitrate levels?

Barbie

I'm assuming he has some sort of chemical media in there? I actually thought of doing something very similar to act as my "automated water changer" when I travel during the summer, as I never trust anyone else with tank maintenance.

Regarding water changes, I'm on the same method as Barbie's except if I want to use DI water; I have to haul the buckets up and down the stairs. As for the dechlorinator, measure how much I need with a syringe; change and add the new water. Lastly, I add the dechlorinator.

Post by **Barbie** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 3:47 pm

Raul, all I can say here is buy a submersible pump with enough pressure to handle the head height

. I can't imagine all the water I'd have been packing up and down my stairs by now for my reef tanks and what not if I hadn't invested in that pump. It sure saves your back! Mag drives come with threads you can then match up with couplers to hook your python hose directly to, also

.

Barbie

khblock · Post by **khblock** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 4:50 pm

I'm like Barbie, I hook up my python and add Proper PH 7.0 ( Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc. product) as I fill up. Proper ph declorinates the water as well as sets the ph to 7.0. We have a serious ph problem. It can range form 3.0 to 8.5. Anywho, It works for me and I breed disucs, angels, plecos and bettas.

For my fry tanks I usually keep a five gallon jug filled because the water temprature can differ.

I'm confused, why would running water through a biological filter reduce nitrate levels?

A biological filter has live bacteria that denitrifies. Defination to follow:

"de·ni·tri·fy (dē-nī’tre-fī’)
1. To remove nitrogen or nitrogen groups from (a compound).
2. To reduce (nitrates or nitrites) to nitrogen-containing gases, as by bacterial action.

The nitrifying bacteria turn the ammonia and nitrite into nitrate. Denitrifying bacteria turn nitrates into nitrogen gas which leaves the system. While nitrifying bacteria require oxygen to complete their process, denitrifying bacteria live in the absence of oxygen. "
This came from a reef site http://www.thinkreef.com/reef-aquarium- ... filtration but the principle is the same.

Another good article is http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm ... cleid=2657

I hope this helps.

stripeythingy · Post by **stripeythingy** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 8:58 pm

[quote="Barbie"]I'm confused, why would running water through a biological filter reduce nitrate levels?

Brbie[/quote

The Fluval 1 is fitted with a chemical media called polyfilter, their is no biological media. According to the manufacturers polyfilter removes ammonia,nitrite nitrate,phosphates,proteins,toxic metals,phenols,insecticides.Sorry for the confusion caused by my earlier post.

SilverSurfer · Post by **SilverSurfer** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 9:06 pm

khblock wrote:I'm like Barbie, I hook up my python and add Proper PH 7.0 ( Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc. product) as I fill up. Proper ph declorinates the water as well as sets the ph to 7.0. We have a serious ph problem. It can range form 3.0 to 8.5. Anywho, It works for me and I breed disucs, angels, plecos and bettas.

Does that Proper ph effect your tank algae at all? i heard it gives bad diatom algae as it uses phosphates to buffer. Does it effect TDS or hardness at all?

khblock · Post by **khblock** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 9:25 pm

Does that Proper ph effect your tank algae at all? i heard it gives bad diatom algae as it uses phosphates to buffer. Does it effect TDS or hardness at all?

So far, I'm not seeing evidence of that. We have a strange water system here. We are 100 miles southwest of Atlanta. Our water comes from the Chattahoochee River and we get all the chemical and human waste from Atlanta and every city along the river north of us. We supposed to have one of the best water systems in the country according to my brother-in-law who is a environmental chemical engineer who was sent down here from PA to tour the place by his company. They constantly monitor the system and add chemicals as needed. I don't know if the Proper ph 7.0 is chemically changed by this process or not. I do know I've been using it three times weekly in all tanks for more than a year. It seems to be working and I'm not seeing the algae I expected from the same literature you've read.

I chose Proper Ph 7.0 because I do see severe ph drops and have had fish loss because of it. I manually lower the ph to 6.5 in discus, angel and zebra tanks using discus buffer. I can buy the 7.0 in large economy sized tubs.

I thought of a RO system but since we have one of the best water treatment facilites in the country and lack of space for the size I would need for my fish room I decided against it.

SilverSurfer · Post by **SilverSurfer** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 10:00 pm

Interesting, so then no matter what it will stablize your ph? like mine is 8.2-8.4, it'll keep it at 7.0 no matter what?

khblock · Post by **khblock** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 10:15 pm

I do alot of water changes and according to tests I see a constant 6.8 - 7.0.

Remember without proper ph 7.0 I see ph sometimes as low as 3.0.