At the moment the temperature in my zebra-tank is 29 degrees Celsius (that is about 85 degrees Fahrenheit).
In this tank I am also still batlling against green algues. The algue problem must have a lot to do with the high temperature.
Is 29 degrees the best temperature for zebra's anyway?
If so, how do others control their algues?
Treating blue algue in tank with zebra's
Treating blue algue in tank with zebra's
Last edited by Cascudo on Sat Oct 30, 2004 4:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Hi Cascudo,
29 deg cel is the right temp for your zebras.
Here is a number of things you can try to combat your blue green algae problem. What ever you do don't use an algaecide, they are effective but the immediate kill of the algae will foul your water and more than likely overwhelm your filteration.
1. Reduce the amount of lighting in your aquarium by 50%.Remove bulbs if necessary.
2. Reduce the amount of hours that you illuminate your aquarium to no more than six hours for the time being. Buy yourself a timer switch so that you can effectively control lighting even when you're not around. If you have the lights on for more than 8 hours a day in an unplanted aquarium you will be encouraging algae growth. Only heavly planted aquariums require more than 10 hours of light per day and that is only if there are light loving species being grown.
3. Test your nitrate level. If it is above 25mg/l it will be contributing to your algae problem. Perform water changes to gradually reduce the nitrate level. This will have the effect of slowly starving the algae of nutrients.
All of these methods will combat an algae problem, combine all of them for maximum effect. Good luck and don't forget to let us know how you get on.
29 deg cel is the right temp for your zebras.
Here is a number of things you can try to combat your blue green algae problem. What ever you do don't use an algaecide, they are effective but the immediate kill of the algae will foul your water and more than likely overwhelm your filteration.
1. Reduce the amount of lighting in your aquarium by 50%.Remove bulbs if necessary.
2. Reduce the amount of hours that you illuminate your aquarium to no more than six hours for the time being. Buy yourself a timer switch so that you can effectively control lighting even when you're not around. If you have the lights on for more than 8 hours a day in an unplanted aquarium you will be encouraging algae growth. Only heavly planted aquariums require more than 10 hours of light per day and that is only if there are light loving species being grown.
3. Test your nitrate level. If it is above 25mg/l it will be contributing to your algae problem. Perform water changes to gradually reduce the nitrate level. This will have the effect of slowly starving the algae of nutrients.
All of these methods will combat an algae problem, combine all of them for maximum effect. Good luck and don't forget to let us know how you get on.
The advice Adam is giving is as usual very godo advice and will most likely take care of your problem.
I'd just like to add that not all algaes are algaes, some are bacteria feeding on phosphates and/or silicate, some algaes are rumoured to uitilize bicarbonate as a carbon source, and often appear in tanks with high carbonate hardness.
I guess my point would be that it's important to identify what kind of algea you have that you consider a problem, then take the appropriate action
I say consider to be a problem, as some types of algaes would be beneficial to your tank.
Just my opinion and is not to be taken is *the only truth*
I'd just like to add that not all algaes are algaes, some are bacteria feeding on phosphates and/or silicate, some algaes are rumoured to uitilize bicarbonate as a carbon source, and often appear in tanks with high carbonate hardness.
I guess my point would be that it's important to identify what kind of algea you have that you consider a problem, then take the appropriate action
I say consider to be a problem, as some types of algaes would be beneficial to your tank.
Just my opinion and is not to be taken is *the only truth*
It is good to know that I keep the zebra's at the right temperature, that is the most important.
I had problems with this tank as long as I have it (more than 3 years).
I learned already a lot about algue control.
My new tank (400 liters) doesn't have any algue problem at all. I think that has a lot to do with the fact that it is heavily planted with fast-growing plants.
Some facts:
- My lights are programmed for 10 hours a day (it is a planted tank, though not heavily planted)
- The tank has 2x30 wat fluorescent quality tubes
- The algues are definitely not blue algues, they are "green thread algues" (I'm not sure this is the right English name) and they cover the slow growing plants (anubias) under a thick layer
- I planted some fast growing plants to see wat happens
- I installed a simple CO2 difussor, it is striking that this tank absorve the CO2 a lot quicker than my other tank, probably there was shortage
- I avoid using an aerator, because it makes the water loose CO2
- According to my test-set, the nitrate level is very low
- I am planning to buy more Armano shrimps to get rid of part of the algues and maybe later on some otocinclus
I had problems with this tank as long as I have it (more than 3 years).
I learned already a lot about algue control.
My new tank (400 liters) doesn't have any algue problem at all. I think that has a lot to do with the fact that it is heavily planted with fast-growing plants.
Some facts:
- My lights are programmed for 10 hours a day (it is a planted tank, though not heavily planted)
- The tank has 2x30 wat fluorescent quality tubes
- The algues are definitely not blue algues, they are "green thread algues" (I'm not sure this is the right English name) and they cover the slow growing plants (anubias) under a thick layer
- I planted some fast growing plants to see wat happens
- I installed a simple CO2 difussor, it is striking that this tank absorve the CO2 a lot quicker than my other tank, probably there was shortage
- I avoid using an aerator, because it makes the water loose CO2
- According to my test-set, the nitrate level is very low
- I am planning to buy more Armano shrimps to get rid of part of the algues and maybe later on some otocinclus
You'll find that very few fish will eat that hair algae. Amano shrimp, SAE's, and rosy barbs are what I use to combat it in my tank full of anubias. If the pH is high, Synodontis petricola do an amazing job on it also, but may disturb the zebras more than you'd like. Sorry I'm not more help!
Barbie
Barbie
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Isn't that weird how some tanks just don't seem to get right at all no matter what you do, while others sits right right from the startCascudo wrote: I had problems with this tank as long as I have it (more than 3 years).
I have a tank like that too, I just tore the whole thing down, scrubbed everything and started all over. I still have a feeling it won't be right this time either... I have no trouble with the other 5 tanks at all, no algae and happy fish.
Weird - although I'm sure there's a sensible explanation to be found
Exactly! Quite amazing.
I had a 30 liter tank that stayed in perfect balance, no algues, while it is said that small tanks should give problems. While it is this 160 liter tank that gives the trouble.
Until recently it was quite overstocked, what could explain the algue growth. (Too much nutrients). Also it has too little plants and too slow growing (just as Barbie, Anubias, good old algue magnets!).
A lot changed in this tank. The vast majority of the fish moved out, to the new tank. (So goodbuy excess of nutrients)
Than I started to try to feed the zebra fry with dried brine shrimp eggs. I find it difficult to get the right portions. It always seemed too little, but in the tank it covered everything. (Hello again excessive nutrients).
Now it seems to me that a new kind of algue is developing, even uglier than the old one.
While the old one resembled linen threads, this one resembles more woolen.
Sometimes I feel like ripping all the plants out and have it as a unplanted tank!
I had a 30 liter tank that stayed in perfect balance, no algues, while it is said that small tanks should give problems. While it is this 160 liter tank that gives the trouble.
Until recently it was quite overstocked, what could explain the algue growth. (Too much nutrients). Also it has too little plants and too slow growing (just as Barbie, Anubias, good old algue magnets!).
A lot changed in this tank. The vast majority of the fish moved out, to the new tank. (So goodbuy excess of nutrients)
Than I started to try to feed the zebra fry with dried brine shrimp eggs. I find it difficult to get the right portions. It always seemed too little, but in the tank it covered everything. (Hello again excessive nutrients).
Now it seems to me that a new kind of algue is developing, even uglier than the old one.
While the old one resembled linen threads, this one resembles more woolen.
Sometimes I feel like ripping all the plants out and have it as a unplanted tank!
-
Tristan
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A freind of mine had the same problem with a 400L tank that went green, we tried everything, blacking the tank out, not feeding the fish, taking the fish out, changing the water with RO water - the tank was still greeeeeen!!! IN the end we emptied it out, poured bleach in it rinsed ti and started it up again. Yep it went green again. in the end all we could do was to add a UV filter into the system and we now have a vrystal clear tank. AS it was a bow fronted tank we thought that it may have something to do with teh refraction of the light or something but i only did biology and chemistry A -level not physics so could do with some thoughts on that. 
L046, L033, L117, L200, L027, L014, Discus, & malawis
My rouge tank is a 250 liter. I've had for about 3 years. When I first set it up I had 4 T8 tubes, an Eheim 2222 and lots of plants. After about a month the water started smelling bad, and I started getting an algea problem.
I added an Eheim 2224 and changed the T8 to T5. problem persisted. I set it up with CO2 - still the same problem.
Added an ekstra internal filter with venturi, no change. i swear this tank is posessed!
The tank has never been overstocked, I haven't overfed them and you know my water changing habits, 20% a week.
This tank just never get a stable enviroment, and I honestly can't see what I'm doing differently from the other tanks. As I said I tore the whole thing down and set it up again, and I swear I can already smell swamp water from this tank. In all fairness, that might be my imagination though
I realize it's not easy to help me out with this one, as I can't give any info on what the problem might be related to, as I have no idea what I'm doing differently with this tank compared to the other 5 healthy and stable ones
I will just have to keep a log over this tank to see what's happening... There's got to be something
I added an Eheim 2224 and changed the T8 to T5. problem persisted. I set it up with CO2 - still the same problem.
Added an ekstra internal filter with venturi, no change. i swear this tank is posessed!
The tank has never been overstocked, I haven't overfed them and you know my water changing habits, 20% a week.
This tank just never get a stable enviroment, and I honestly can't see what I'm doing differently from the other tanks. As I said I tore the whole thing down and set it up again, and I swear I can already smell swamp water from this tank. In all fairness, that might be my imagination though
I realize it's not easy to help me out with this one, as I can't give any info on what the problem might be related to, as I have no idea what I'm doing differently with this tank compared to the other 5 healthy and stable ones
I will just have to keep a log over this tank to see what's happening... There's got to be something
Cascudo
your temp seems spot on. Do you have a digital camera to help us get a positive id on the algae? If so, send me a pic, and I'll post it.
Mceve,
if you can, get as much info as possible, nitrites/ nirates etc, and let us know. Once again, if you have a digital camera, take a few shots and post them.
cheers guys, and good post by the way!
rob
your temp seems spot on. Do you have a digital camera to help us get a positive id on the algae? If so, send me a pic, and I'll post it.
Mceve,
if you can, get as much info as possible, nitrites/ nirates etc, and let us know. Once again, if you have a digital camera, take a few shots and post them.
cheers guys, and good post by the way!
rob
I have got more information about the kind of algues in my zebra tank.
I think it is blue algue after all. I couldn't believe it first (because I consider this a beginner's problem and my tank is already 3 years old), but it is blue algue, because it is very easy to remove and it is a slimy substance and also grows on the substrate.
This is really funny because when the tank was still overcrowded I just had problems with hair algue. Now their are very view fish in the tank, I have problems with blue algue.
How should I treat it?
Adam already gave some structured advices. But I do have some plants in the tank. Do they survive with 8 hours a day? It isn't a catastrophy anyway, because they are just cuttings from the big tank. But though, it would be nice to have them in the tank.
At the moment I have the lights on for 10 hours a day and I do waterchanges once in two weeks for 25 %.
When I go to the LFS, I know they will give me that white powder that clouds the water for some time, they say it is harmless for the fish. But still I am a little worried about my beloved zebra's.
What should be the best way to combat the algues without threatening the zebra's?
I think it is blue algue after all. I couldn't believe it first (because I consider this a beginner's problem and my tank is already 3 years old), but it is blue algue, because it is very easy to remove and it is a slimy substance and also grows on the substrate.
This is really funny because when the tank was still overcrowded I just had problems with hair algue. Now their are very view fish in the tank, I have problems with blue algue.
How should I treat it?
Adam already gave some structured advices. But I do have some plants in the tank. Do they survive with 8 hours a day? It isn't a catastrophy anyway, because they are just cuttings from the big tank. But though, it would be nice to have them in the tank.
At the moment I have the lights on for 10 hours a day and I do waterchanges once in two weeks for 25 %.
When I go to the LFS, I know they will give me that white powder that clouds the water for some time, they say it is harmless for the fish. But still I am a little worried about my beloved zebra's.
What should be the best way to combat the algues without threatening the zebra's?
This will be advice that makes you scratch your head, but if you do LESS water changes and add fertilizer with some nitrates, it will usually go away within a month or so. I wouldn't have believed it would help, but it really does. What is happening is the plants are utilizing all of the nitrates in your system, and there is still phosphate and other elements left over. If you can increase the nitrate level so that the plants can uptake more of those other nutrients with photosynthesis, the cyanobacteria will just go away. I dropped down to 10% changes a week on the tank I got it the worst in, and that was only to siphon out all the cyano I could. I fed normally, and eventually it went away completely and has never come back. My nitrates never went above 10 ppm, and the fish in the tank thrived!
Barbie
Barbie
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