Hey everyone.
I am setting up a tank for (probably) juveniles and wanted to run it by you. I currrently breed angels but am getting rid of my last 100 or so sometime soon, but I already have a couple of 50G tanks that can be made ready to host my new guys. Here is what I'm thinking:
50G (48"L x 12.5"W x 19"H)
Aquaclear 70 external (old 500)
Internal sponge filter (either air driven or maxijet 200 powerhead)
200W heater
No substrate
Lots of rocks for hidey holes etc.
Maybe some driftwood (pros/cons? I know they don't NEED it)
PVC pipe - a couple of pieces 1" internal (bigger/smaller?)
Room is my fish room so lit from ceiling with a couple of cool white 40W fluorescents
No lids on tank
What do you think? My water changes will probably be straight tap water (pH around 7.8 ) unless this is absolutely terrible. The sponge filter will be transferred from one of my angel tanks so already seeded with lots of nice bacteria. Will there be any problems with disease transmission from the angels from the filter? How many fish would be a good number for this tank? I'd like to know both for juve's and adults because I'm not really sure what's available yet.
Val
New Zebra set up!
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Dr. P
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Hey Val, no idea how this post has slipped every bodys eye.
The setup sounds fine to me mate. Personally, I would go for an inter filter along side the external and sponge filter you have already mentioned. You can never have enough back up plans as far as I am concerned.
I'd add the driftwood if I were you. I have read many articles and posts where ppl claim their fish never use the wood. IME, the wood is used. I often find my fish rasping on the wood, I have the mess they make as proof. It also adds anothe option when it comes to creating hidey holes. Even if your particular fish didn't rasp or use it.....it can't do any harm.
You shouldn't have a problem using the sponge filter from the Angel tank, unless it was a problemed tank.
Hope this helps. I am sure others with spot this post and chip in.
The setup sounds fine to me mate. Personally, I would go for an inter filter along side the external and sponge filter you have already mentioned. You can never have enough back up plans as far as I am concerned.
I'd add the driftwood if I were you. I have read many articles and posts where ppl claim their fish never use the wood. IME, the wood is used. I often find my fish rasping on the wood, I have the mess they make as proof. It also adds anothe option when it comes to creating hidey holes. Even if your particular fish didn't rasp or use it.....it can't do any harm.
You shouldn't have a problem using the sponge filter from the Angel tank, unless it was a problemed tank.
Hope this helps. I am sure others with spot this post and chip in.
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Thanks Dr. P, it's probably a good thing nobody replied before you, gave me time to really think it through for myself and make a few changes 
So, along with what was in my first post, the tank is now up and running with a Magnum 350 (350 gph) canister filter as well. It's still just a bare tank right now, because I wanted to see how everything panned out once I actually put it together (and it's a good thing too, I had to move the entire set up around cause there wasn't enough room between the tank and the wall for the aquaclear).
Do you think it would still be a good idea for an internal filter as well? I have actually been playing with the idea myself. Something else I was thinking about was UV sterilization. I haven't been able to find anything on this topic yet, but I do have a 13W unit that isn't really being used at the moment. Would this be a worthwhile addition to a zebra tank?
As for the driftwood, I was leaning that way myself. Not out of any innate knowledge, but I just like the way it looks, and thought it would add to the general feeling of clutter zebras seem to prefer
Thanks for the reassurance on the sponge, I've never had a problem with my angels, but (especially with zebras) I'd rather make sure.
Val
So, along with what was in my first post, the tank is now up and running with a Magnum 350 (350 gph) canister filter as well. It's still just a bare tank right now, because I wanted to see how everything panned out once I actually put it together (and it's a good thing too, I had to move the entire set up around cause there wasn't enough room between the tank and the wall for the aquaclear).
Do you think it would still be a good idea for an internal filter as well? I have actually been playing with the idea myself. Something else I was thinking about was UV sterilization. I haven't been able to find anything on this topic yet, but I do have a 13W unit that isn't really being used at the moment. Would this be a worthwhile addition to a zebra tank?
As for the driftwood, I was leaning that way myself. Not out of any innate knowledge, but I just like the way it looks, and thought it would add to the general feeling of clutter zebras seem to prefer
Thanks for the reassurance on the sponge, I've never had a problem with my angels, but (especially with zebras) I'd rather make sure.
Val
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Dr. P
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I couldn't really say whether or not a UV steralisation is a good or bad idea. I know that I don't use it tho, and I get by fine, lets see what other have to say on that.
Regarding the internal. Already having 3 means of filtration (sponge, external, hang on the back) the internal isn't exactly needed but it wouldn't be a bad idea. Possibly an internal with a spray bar attachment giving more aeration to the tank rather than more current....but at the same time giving additional filtration.
Regarding the internal. Already having 3 means of filtration (sponge, external, hang on the back) the internal isn't exactly needed but it wouldn't be a bad idea. Possibly an internal with a spray bar attachment giving more aeration to the tank rather than more current....but at the same time giving additional filtration.
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I think I'm going to add the UV. I haven't heard anything that says it can adversely affect the fish, and it will give me a little extra peace of mind.
I have been scouting around for a decent internal, but just ended up buying an aquaclear quick filter attachment. I think I'm going to put this on one of my other powerheads and drop it into the new tank, probably to run the UV. I'm working on the spray bar too, I think I'm going to attach one to the magnum return line.
Val
I have been scouting around for a decent internal, but just ended up buying an aquaclear quick filter attachment. I think I'm going to put this on one of my other powerheads and drop it into the new tank, probably to run the UV. I'm working on the spray bar too, I think I'm going to attach one to the magnum return line.
Val
The quick filter sounds like a great idea, and in theory they are, but they actually clog so fast, I'd worry about using it to run a UV. You'll burn it up if the flow gets reduced and it definitely will, IMO.
Running a UV can make your fish less able to deal with bacteria and viral loads in the water, so keep in mind that when you move fish out of a UV tank, you have to keep more of an eye on them. I personally only run my UV on a quarantine system.
Barbie
Running a UV can make your fish less able to deal with bacteria and viral loads in the water, so keep in mind that when you move fish out of a UV tank, you have to keep more of an eye on them. I personally only run my UV on a quarantine system.
Barbie
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I'd never heard of a flowrate slowdown affecting a burnout rate on a UV before but after thinking about it or a second it makes sense- temperature buildup within the irradiating chamber. Heat bad, cool good.
I had alaso heard about the fish and their immune systems adjustment or lack thereof. I haven't seen it in person yet but it does sound more than plausible.
I had alaso heard about the fish and their immune systems adjustment or lack thereof. I haven't seen it in person yet but it does sound more than plausible.
Thanks for the input guys
I like the quick filters too. But I didn't really realize what I was getting when I bought it. The quick filters I'm used to (in Aus) use the large pore aquaclear sponge instead of the micron cartridge. I understand what you're saying about the flow rate being reduced by the quick filter, but I actually thought this might be a good thing, especially as a pre-UV set up, as it would increase contact time in the chamber. That said, I may replace the micron cartridge with a cylindrical large pore sponge, like the ones made for overflow prefilters.
I'm not really happy with the idea of inhibiting the fish's immune system though. Might take some more time to think about that...
Val
I like the quick filters too. But I didn't really realize what I was getting when I bought it. The quick filters I'm used to (in Aus) use the large pore aquaclear sponge instead of the micron cartridge. I understand what you're saying about the flow rate being reduced by the quick filter, but I actually thought this might be a good thing, especially as a pre-UV set up, as it would increase contact time in the chamber. That said, I may replace the micron cartridge with a cylindrical large pore sponge, like the ones made for overflow prefilters.
I'm not really happy with the idea of inhibiting the fish's immune system though. Might take some more time to think about that...
Val
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Dr. P
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One way to think about it Val mate. None (that I know of) of our successful L46 breeders on this forum use a UV system in their 'breeding tanks', so you can be sure that NOT using one isn't going to cause any problems.
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I've been watching this with some interest, as I've never even heard about a UV system for tanks. I understand what it's for, UV light is sterilizing, killing bacteria. But I trust the light never get outside the filtration system? It would also sterilize any eggs you might shine this light one if I understand UV correctly. I might not of course.
Hi McEve
No, the UV light never comes into contact with anything but the water that passes through the filter housing. The way they work is, you usually have a pump or powerhead drawing water from your tank, and the outlet of this pump is piped directly through an enclosed (usually external) housing containing a UV bulb, the water then returns to the tank "sterilized". You are right about the eggs though, and just about anything else in your tank would die if exposed to the UV long enough as well. So you need to be careful that none of your livestock is going to be able to get in there
.
UV sterilizers are not 100% effective either though. Some things in your water can endure the UV light longer than others, so the goal is to maintain an acceptable flow rate, whilst also making sure that the water is in the chamber long enough to make sure you've killed off any nasties that might be hanging around. That said, even if you reduce the flow rate drastically, there is no guarantee that every single particle of water in your tank is going to pass through the pump and come into contact with the UV. It is by no means a failsafe, but does tend to add a bit extra peace of mind when dealing with valuable fish.
Val
No, the UV light never comes into contact with anything but the water that passes through the filter housing. The way they work is, you usually have a pump or powerhead drawing water from your tank, and the outlet of this pump is piped directly through an enclosed (usually external) housing containing a UV bulb, the water then returns to the tank "sterilized". You are right about the eggs though, and just about anything else in your tank would die if exposed to the UV long enough as well. So you need to be careful that none of your livestock is going to be able to get in there
. UV sterilizers are not 100% effective either though. Some things in your water can endure the UV light longer than others, so the goal is to maintain an acceptable flow rate, whilst also making sure that the water is in the chamber long enough to make sure you've killed off any nasties that might be hanging around. That said, even if you reduce the flow rate drastically, there is no guarantee that every single particle of water in your tank is going to pass through the pump and come into contact with the UV. It is by no means a failsafe, but does tend to add a bit extra peace of mind when dealing with valuable fish.
Val
IT would take a considerable amount of exposure to UV light in order to sterilize etggs. UV is designed to kill single-cell bacteria, for the most part. You'll find that it does not kill the organism that causes ich in its parasitical form because it's just too darn big.
What UV is really good at is clearing up green water. It kills the bacteria buildups that cause algae blooms- some algaes are just cyanobacteria after all, even in fresh water. UV does remarkably well in this regard.
It also helps prevent full life cycles of some bacteria-based infections and infestations. It does not PREVENT them or CURE them but it can help keep the water from developing them. While this is a great boon to community tanks, in a breeding tank it's still an unknown, at least for me, as I haven't found any literature anywhere that concentrates on UV sterilization in breeding tanks. It's a bad thing in a blackwater tank, that much I know. I don't know its impact in a clear-water one though.
A lot of knowledgable people don't run the UV light 24/7, but only as needed to clear water of algage blooms or rid tanks of infections. It does great with the one but not too well with the second- but every little bit helps.
What UV is really good at is clearing up green water. It kills the bacteria buildups that cause algae blooms- some algaes are just cyanobacteria after all, even in fresh water. UV does remarkably well in this regard.
It also helps prevent full life cycles of some bacteria-based infections and infestations. It does not PREVENT them or CURE them but it can help keep the water from developing them. While this is a great boon to community tanks, in a breeding tank it's still an unknown, at least for me, as I haven't found any literature anywhere that concentrates on UV sterilization in breeding tanks. It's a bad thing in a blackwater tank, that much I know. I don't know its impact in a clear-water one though.
A lot of knowledgable people don't run the UV light 24/7, but only as needed to clear water of algage blooms or rid tanks of infections. It does great with the one but not too well with the second- but every little bit helps.
