ZebraPleco.com • The complete Hypancistrus zebra resource

Here is how I made my own Zebra Pleco Cave (1" H x 1.5" W x 5" long)

Material

http://www.avesstudio.com/Products/Apox ... culpt.html

I like Natural or Silver Grey colour as they match the colour of my rocks.

Step by step

These are all I needed for my design, wet towel is very important to keep your hand wet. So the clay can not stick to your hand.

I want to have the cave high at 1" and 1.5" wide and this paper STAPLES box happend to have the size that I was looking for so I used it as a casting for clay.

plastic wrap- help to prevent the clay stick to the paper box




Mix part A and B together.



cover one end of the box.



3 hours later after the clay set,



Get ready to the body of my cave.




then let it stand like



Few hour later, don't worry about the rough surface this will be fix later on.



smooth out the inside of the cave.







Ready to put them together.



the cave entrance is a bit too wide, tried to narrow it down.



Final look, total cost $5 of material. I like to smooth out the surface at much as possible since this cave is specially design for zebra pleco and I don't want the rough surface may damage the york sack of the small wriggler.





Here are some of my others caves with different sizes and shapes.

They look great and some interesting designs there too!

Looks like an awesome product! Does it come as two seperate items which need mixing together like milliput? If not I might have to get some myself...I noticed they do ship worlwide also.

Well this stuff looks ideal.

But what is it made of? I know it states non toxic, but all the applications on the site seem to be for art works and repairing doors etc.

Now non toxic for items around the house, for storing food for human consumption, and continual use in an aquarium (where PH's can vary) are entirely different things.

In fact many plastics are sold and thought to be non toxic, though many coloured plastics if submerged in an aquarium for any length of time are likely to leach nasties. The effects on the fish are likely to be unknown, as manufacturers are unlikely to have a Research and Development Dept investigating the long term effects on fish.

As a general rule of thumb, IMO it is best to use things manufactured for the aquarium hobby, tested for toxicity in the conditions it is to be used ( Preferably tested for the Human food industry ) and as a lat resort, clear or white plastic containers as there is no use of dyes in these.

I would love to use this material, but until I know more I will avoid it.

Dave

It's application also include

ART, DESIGN, MODEL MAKING
& SPECIAL EFFECTS


Create or add to models; fill & cover seams, cracks, and armatures; sculpt eye sets; bond pieces; fabricate or extend parts; create dioramas, relief maps; create natural-looking trees, branches, rocks, bases, waterfalls, aquatic scenery,, theme park projects, and other scenic effects. Exterior quality. Much more!

I have use them for my BN pleco without any problem. I also have them in my African Cichlid tank backgroup running for the last two years (see picture below) Or you can try to call them and find out for yourself.

dave wrote:Well this stuff looks ideal.

But what is it made of? I know it states non toxic, but all the applications on the site seem to be for art works and repairing doors etc.

Now non toxic for items around the house, for storing food for human consumption, and continual use in an aquarium (where PH's can vary) are entirely different things.

In fact many plastics are sold and thought to be non toxic, though many coloured plastics if submerged in an aquarium for any length of time are likely to leach nasties. The effects on the fish are likely to be unknown, as manufacturers are unlikely to have a Research and Development Dept investigating the long term effects on fish.

As a general rule of thumb, IMO it is best to use things manufactured for the aquarium hobby, tested for toxicity in the conditions it is to be used ( Preferably tested for the Human food industry ) and as a lat resort, clear or white plastic containers as there is no use of dyes in these.

I would love to use this material, but until I know more I will avoid it.

Dave

wow~~

This one is cool!

Great idea~~

Nice tank

Having bred Protemelas Fenestratus, Copadichromis Borleyi, and still breeding Cyrtacara Moori and Tropheus Moori Chipimbi. Also breeding BN Albino, Albino Longfin and Common. I wouldn't have a problem trying the material in one of these tanks. (If I needed an alternative to what I currently use)

These fish are relatively easy to breed, and with the exception of the Tropheus fairly tough in respect of water conditions. If these fish stopped breeding you would look for a reason why, and the problem is easily remedied.

My main emphasis is on breeding Lno's especially 46's, where breeding is a bit more problematic. Introducing decor, which may or may not leach chemicals into the water which is not tried and tested is a chance I am not prepared to take.

While one colony breeds regularly (It's not predictable though), I am trying to get my other 3 colonies to breed. Until the breeding of L46 is perfected, so that everybody is doing it, I would think it sensible to stick to the tried and tested.

Dave

your choice my friend. whatever work for you. So far no problem for me. I only have 3/4" fry in 10gal tank with these cave at a smaller scale of course. I will let you know if they spawn or not in these cave in the next 2 years or so.

So far this stuff is save for L46 fry, BN pleco adult breeding and many African cichlid hap and peacocks in my 150 gal tanks. It should be good for L46 adult.

dave wrote:Nice tank

Having bred Protemelas Fenestratus, Copadichromis Borleyi, and still breeding Cyrtacara Moori and Tropheus Moori Chipimbi. Also breeding BN Albino, Albino Longfin and Common. I wouldn't have a problem trying the material in one of these tanks. (If I needed an alternative to what I currently use)

These fish are relatively easy to breed, and with the exception of the Tropheus fairly tough in respect of water conditions. If these fish stopped breeding you would look for a reason why, and the problem is easily remedied.

My main emphasis is on breeding Lno's especially 46's, where breeding is a bit more problematic. Introducing decor, which may or may not leach chemicals into the water which is not tried and tested is a chance I am not prepared to take.

While one colony breeds regularly (It's not predictable though), I am trying to get my other 3 colonies to breed. Until the breeding of L46 is perfected, so that everybody is doing it, I would think it sensible to stick to the tried and tested.

Dave

I would really love to know the answer, and I really hope it works.

Dave

Me too, I hope it works for me

Thank you come again.

dave wrote:I would really love to know the answer, and I really hope it works.

Dave

1 1/2 year later, they are now 2.5" still waiting

Wow has it really been that long. If that's the case, then I think my F1 should be about ready too.

Nov-08-2006 the day I post it until today, LOL. This is one of the four fish I got from you awhile back. It maybe another year to go. Hopefully less.

hows caves coming along



Dane

Hi

Still waiting, I change the design a bit so they are now in there new black cave.


http://www.plecofanatics.com/forum/show ... ght=remove

Dane wrote:hows caves coming along



Dane

Finally