Quarantine Tank

Pretty much explains itself really. If you have questions about tank set-ups, tank furniture, (caves etc) chuck them in here!

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NetsuaiAngel
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Quarantine Tank

Post by NetsuaiAngel »

Did I spell that right??

Now that my 50g is stabilizing, I'm curious on what size should a quarantine tank could be? Could I use a 5 gallon eclipse system? What other factors should I consider in my decision... also, if anyone can give me some persuasion tips to convince my b/f to let me put another tank inside his house ;)

Also..this is off topic, but what pH range does everyone keep their zebras at? I'm going to my lfs to find out what pH they have their two males in. I'm concerned because if I purchase another zebra and their owner keeps their zebras in a much lower pH than mine, then that means I would need to slowly acclimate them to my main tank's pH.

This is all new to me :(
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NeoCult
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Post by NeoCult »

Hi i have a 2.5ft tank 100ltr i think for my quarantine tank and my ph is 6.7 - 7

hope this helps
10x L046 Zebs for now, more coming soon ;) 6x L199 Plecos, 6x L129 Plecos, 45x Cardinals, corys & shrimps

Check My Blog - http://zebrapleco.net
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Post by Barbie »

I would definitely have to recommend a larger quarantine tank. Even a 10 gallon can be difficult to keep stable enough to prevent stressing on fish that have just recently been transported and shipped and under tons of stress anyway. A 20 gallon long usually works great, IME. I do my absolute best to keep a 20 gallon tank empty and sitting in wait for when I'm getting new fish. I run 2 filters in most of my tanks, so when it comes time to quarantine new stock, I just siphon 2/3 of a tank of water from an existing tank and add one of the filters from that tank, while putting the new one into the existing tank. It's always worked well for me. I use the tank water in order to not stress the bacteria in the sponge and keep providing a food source for it, during the adjustment process. I think that's a step most people miss, as the bacteria don't live in the water column, but the food for them definitely is!

You can always set up another tank inside the stand for an existing one ;). Or you can explain to him that I have two Ex's that had that exact same outlook on my fish tanks ;).

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Post by INXS »

I have found that a well cycled large tank can be the difference between success and faliour.
It sucks to have to set up a large tank just for quarantine but after loosing many gold nuggets over the years and hearing much of the same from others I tried to acclimate a big order of plecos in a 125gal that I had cycled with guppies for several months - most of the gold nuggets are still with me after over 2 years and several of the other plecos too - this was all wild stock that came in being in poor shape.

My Water is 7.8 ph and the zebras do well. Many (most) other plecos don't spawn for me and I can't keep Rams or checker board cichlids for more then a few days (ph +hardness issues) but most others do OK.
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Post by NetsuaiAngel »

Wow... it's a bit more than I thought but I see everyone's point from your experiences. Have to work on the b/f on finding another spot for a long 20. There's some nice long "bookshelf" tanks I see at the stores. I'll probably stick with two bio-wheel filters and minimal decor in the tank to give the fish a sense of security. How's that sound?

This might be off topic but if you purchase a fish that was raised in a different pH (higher or lower), how do you acclimate them? Do you set up you quarantine tank to be the same environment as what they came from and then slowly condition them to your main tank's parameters?

If so, I'm amazed that most sellers do not post their water parameters to give you a heads up on the fish they're trying to sell. They assume you have the knowledge of the species they're selling.
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Post by Barbie »

I personally acclimate all new fish to my tap water parameters. Those are moderate hardness, pH of 7.8. I use more than adequate filtration to assure I never have ammonia present, and I do frequent water changes to keep the water parametrs stable and as optimal as possible. Only the most sensitive fish get parameters modified on arrival. Even with all of the fish that I keep, I've not had a problem with this method. You have to carefully acclimate the fish to avoid pH shock and ammonia problems, but other than that, people put far more stress on exactly matching parameters than the fish really are stressed by, IMO. Within reason of course.

For now, learn to keep what you've got stable and your fish will appreciate you for it ;). There are fish that won't appreciate tap conditions long term, but honestly, if you avoid discus, apistos, and a few other oddballs, you're going to be much better off just providing the stable parameters that the US requires for drinking water ;).

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Post by NetsuaiAngel »

Barbie... you just know how to make me dance! :)

Approach b/f about a 20 gallon long as a quarantine tank. He said he has to think about it but I have a feeling he might give in ;) heehee!

50g tank is being stable now. Feeding occurs every three days and I peeked in there today during a break from my studies and to my surprise I think I have baby guppies again! Whoa! They look like they were recently born because they're so tiny and are hiding in the gravel and caves of the tank. I only saw two today, so I have no clue if there are more. I think they're guppies because I doubt any gudgeon fry survived the ordeal my tank went through.

Oh yeah, back on topic! DUH!

I went an read through the acclimation suggestions by Dr. Foster & Smith. It helped me understand a lot about properly acclimating fish to my water parameters. I'll probably head out this weekend to get an airline valve piece since I have extra airline tubing from my tank.
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