ICH!!!

If it isn't to late, and you're desperately looking for some advice, hopefully someone can help you out.

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Caesars
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Post by Caesars » Wed Dec 14, 2005 9:40 am

Rising the temperature doesn't cure ich. It speeds its life cycle, so that the adults move quicker in the water to lay eggs and the eggs can be killed off quicker by the medication.Therefore it speeds up the amount needed for treatment :wink:

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Post by inia » Wed Dec 14, 2005 1:39 pm

Caesars:
You said it better, that is just what I ment in my comment... :) Thanks!

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Post by Telnes » Wed Dec 14, 2005 2:39 pm

Caesars wrote:Rising the temperature doesn't cure ich. It speeds its life cycle, so that the adults move quicker in the water to lay eggs and the eggs can be killed off quicker by the medication.Therefore it speeds up the amount needed for treatment :wink:
If the temperature is above 32 celsius it will kill the buggers :D

Water temperature has a tremendous influence on how fast the life cycle for "Ich" is completed. At warm temperatures (75-79°F), the life cycle is completed in about 48 hours, which means that chemical treatments should be applied every other day. At cooler temperatures the life cycle is prolonged and treatments should be spaced further apart. For example, at a water temperature of 60°F, treatments should be spaced 4 or 5 days apart. In warm water, a minimum of three treatments applied 2 to 3 days apart is required. In cooler water, a minimum of five treatments should be applied 3 to 5 days apart. Treatments should never be discontinued until all mortality from "Ich" has stopped. Fish should be closely watched during recovery; the weakened fish may be susceptible to a secondary bacterial infection. The choice of chemical used to treat "Ich" will be based upon water quality conditions, species of fish to be treated, and the type of system fish are housed in. In general, copper sulfate, formalin, and potassium permanganate are all effective against "Ich" when applied at the correct concentration in a repetitive manner as described above. A number of commercial preparations are available from pet stores which contain one or several of these agents



Special Considerations for Treatment of Pet Fish

Temperature manipulation is also an effective way to control "Ich" in home aquariums. This technique is often not practical for commercial fish farms, but is advantageous for the hobbyist because expensive products do not have to be purchased and it is safer for some of the delicate species which are popular in community tanks. Water temperature can be gradually raised to 90°F, maintained there for 24 hours, and then gradually dropped to 70°F for 48 hours. The infective juveniles (tomites) will be killed while the water temperature is at 90°. When the temperature is dropped the adult organisms will fall off the fish and begin to reproduce. As the young begin to emerge 48 hours later, the temperature is again raised to 90°F, causing them to die. Repeating this process continuously (24 hours at 90° F followed by 48 hours at 70° F) for two weeks should control the disease. Cleaning the tank every second day will help remove cysts before they rupture and therefore help to prevent completion of the life cycle. If you decide to use temperature to control "Ich" in your home aquarium be sure that the type of fish in your tank can tolerate the temperature extremes involved.

Footnotes
1. This document is CIR920, one of a series of the Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences Department, Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida. Original publication date March, 1991. Reviewed July, 2002. Visit the EDIS Web Site at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu.Please visit the FAIRS Web site at http://hammock.ifas.ufl.edu.
2. Ruth Francis-Floyd, IFAS ExtensionVeterinarian, Department of Large Animal Clinical Sciences, and Peggy Reed, Biological Scientist, Department of Large Animal Clinical Sciences and Department of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences; Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Gainesville, 32611.

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Post by Tom2600 » Wed Dec 14, 2005 11:52 pm

Just for the record a constant temp. of 30C for 10 days DOES definitely KILL ich. I can say this confidentally as I have used this method to successfully wipe out ich on a number of occasions over the last few years. I have never used medication or salt or anything other treatment in conjunction with the increased temp. The only thing I do is increase the oxygenation and change 10% of the water every 3 days during the heat treatment by syphoning the gravel.

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Post by Zebrapl3co » Wed Mar 01, 2006 3:08 pm

Not too sure if it is wise to resurects this topic ... but for the record, most ick/velvet medications are carcinogenics. Fish can get cancer too, that's some thing to think about ...

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Re: ICH!!! (and Salt)

Post by pjvenner » Thu Nov 21, 2013 4:54 pm

Sorry, I know this is an old thread but I'm sure there will be many like me still reading it.

The use of salt does seem to be a very grey area. I can say that I have used salt at 1 tsp per gallon on my community tank when my large common plec develops stress spots and it clears them up almost straight away. The tank also contains neon tetra, congo tetra, bolivian rams and angelfish. I started at 20% of that dose & monitored conditions very closely. The only effects I noted were positive ones such as the rams getting more colourful. I must re-stress what has already been said, DO NOT ADD IT DIRECTLY TO THE AQUARIUM. DISSOLVE IT IN WARM WATER & TRICKLE IT INTO THE FLOW OF THE FILTER OUTLET.

Scientific backing will be hard to find but bear in mind that most laboratories that do this kind of research will be working for the 'expensive chemical remedy industry'. They are in business for profit, not fish welfare and they aren't going to advertise the fact that a few pence worth of salt may be as good or better than a £10 bottle of chems that may have undisclosed side effects, just as API don't advertise that melafix is basically diluted pure tea tree oil.

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