I keep my trio of Zebras in 48(L) * 12(W) * 15(H) tank.
Pea gravel substrate and no plants.
Tempature is 28 Degrees.
Filtered by two air driven sponge filters.
Two power heads for current, placed on the back corner at each side of the tank, each one angled to the front middle of the tank to create a current.
With three caves from Dr Gribb and a couple of pieces of slate proped up with rock.
PH - 7 & KH - 2.
Is this a decent set up for spawning Zebras ?
After trying to and losing out, on purchasing another pair of zebras recently.
How many zebras can be kept in my tank and would i be alright with two males in a tank that size, or stick to one male and only put more females in it ?
Am i better with just one cave for the male, as the female zebras hide out under the sponge filters a lot ?
What water changes do you do to your tank to encourage the zebras to spawn ?
Andy.
Zebra Tank Set Up
-
Dr. P
- Mentally Certified!
- Posts: 462
- Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2004 10:59 am
- Location: Fife, Scotland
- Contact:
Hi Andy, quite a few questions there. I'm sure some of our great members will chip in soon.
The tank you described works out to be roughly 31UK gallon (142 Litres) after displacement. I myself keep 4 zebras (I think* that I have 2 males and 2 females) in a 20UK (long) gallon tank. I think I could add another 2 females in my tank(I wish I could really
). I would think that you could have 6-8 zebras, but I wouldn't take that as gosble 
Lets see what the others think.
IMO, I think you should step up the filtration on your tank. Over filtering can help keeping stable conditions when it comes to feeding them up and conditioning them for breeding. The air driven filters are a great addition, I use them myself, but IMO they aren't the safest/most reliable form of MAIN filtration.
On my Zebra tank, I have an external eheim, an oversized internal power filter, a Hydro internal airpump, an air driven duo sponge filter and a 4 inch bubble wand (and I suppose we should count the air driven fry trap)and it's the most stable of all my tanks, even more stable than my planted tank. With all this filtration and aeration, I can afford to overfeed slightly whilst conditioning the zebras AND feeding the fry from my first spawn....all in the same tank.
As far as you have described, your setup sound perfect, although I would be inclined to add more caves, even some pvc piping, just so the fish have the choice of different hang outs.
When it comes to the male to female ratio. If I could choose I would have 2-3 females to 1 male....that maybe just my opinion, but in any case....females out numbering the males is definately advisable.
As far as maintanence goes. I do a 20%-25% every 5 days. Your test results should guide you in which way you should go. Do you know the Nitrate readings in your tank? How often do you clean/clear your sponge filters?
I hope I have helped some, this is a long post, lol....I am sure that others will be along soon to add to my ramblings
The tank you described works out to be roughly 31UK gallon (142 Litres) after displacement. I myself keep 4 zebras (I think* that I have 2 males and 2 females) in a 20UK (long) gallon tank. I think I could add another 2 females in my tank(I wish I could really
). I would think that you could have 6-8 zebras, but I wouldn't take that as gosble Lets see what the others think.IMO, I think you should step up the filtration on your tank. Over filtering can help keeping stable conditions when it comes to feeding them up and conditioning them for breeding. The air driven filters are a great addition, I use them myself, but IMO they aren't the safest/most reliable form of MAIN filtration.
On my Zebra tank, I have an external eheim, an oversized internal power filter, a Hydro internal airpump, an air driven duo sponge filter and a 4 inch bubble wand (and I suppose we should count the air driven fry trap)and it's the most stable of all my tanks, even more stable than my planted tank. With all this filtration and aeration, I can afford to overfeed slightly whilst conditioning the zebras AND feeding the fry from my first spawn....all in the same tank.
As far as you have described, your setup sound perfect, although I would be inclined to add more caves, even some pvc piping, just so the fish have the choice of different hang outs.
When it comes to the male to female ratio. If I could choose I would have 2-3 females to 1 male....that maybe just my opinion, but in any case....females out numbering the males is definately advisable.
As far as maintanence goes. I do a 20%-25% every 5 days. Your test results should guide you in which way you should go. Do you know the Nitrate readings in your tank? How often do you clean/clear your sponge filters?
I hope I have helped some, this is a long post, lol....I am sure that others will be along soon to add to my ramblings
Sword Pies. As Good as it Gets - Guaranteed!! [img]http://www.refreshdesign.co.uk/dale/scotsmile2.gif[/img]
I want to run the Magnum 250 gph H.O.T in addition to the two MExi-Jet 400s running the Hydro-Sponge II's on my 20 gallon long . I think it might be a bit much, though- the substrate gets displaced;)
Might have to order an external filter, like an Aquaclear 50 or 70 or something.
I am a bit concerned about oxygenation in this tank. I've got ventura-bubbles coming in from one powerhead but the other one refuses to cooperate and just won't blow bubbles.
My intent is to put two zebreas in this tank for photo-op and growout purposes, and when I get the next group or two- hopefully very soon!! - I will put them all in a big tank, like a 40 wide, and let them do nothing but grow, grow, grow.
Which brings me to my next thought- tank dimensions. I thin oxygenated water is most important here, and therefore, I think the depth of the tank should be carefully considered. I am wondering if maybe a tank of ten or 12 inches height, by 24 inches deep, by 30 or 36 inches long, would work properly. Lots of floor space and surface area, and shallowish water for better oxygenation at all depths. THis would be a custom-shaped tank, and if I remember right it woudl be around 60 gallon tank.
I like oddball tanks;)
Might have to order an external filter, like an Aquaclear 50 or 70 or something.
I am a bit concerned about oxygenation in this tank. I've got ventura-bubbles coming in from one powerhead but the other one refuses to cooperate and just won't blow bubbles.
My intent is to put two zebreas in this tank for photo-op and growout purposes, and when I get the next group or two- hopefully very soon!! - I will put them all in a big tank, like a 40 wide, and let them do nothing but grow, grow, grow.
Which brings me to my next thought- tank dimensions. I thin oxygenated water is most important here, and therefore, I think the depth of the tank should be carefully considered. I am wondering if maybe a tank of ten or 12 inches height, by 24 inches deep, by 30 or 36 inches long, would work properly. Lots of floor space and surface area, and shallowish water for better oxygenation at all depths. THis would be a custom-shaped tank, and if I remember right it woudl be around 60 gallon tank.
I like oddball tanks;)
-
Dr. P
- Mentally Certified!
- Posts: 462
- Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2004 10:59 am
- Location: Fife, Scotland
- Contact:
That would be a very cool setup for Zebras man!!! Can you just image the view you would have! It would have to be a tank in the centre of a room...that would be awesome, view the fish from any angle!
Sword Pies. As Good as it Gets - Guaranteed!! [img]http://www.refreshdesign.co.uk/dale/scotsmile2.gif[/img]
Not exactly center, but enough room to walk around it. I think I may attempt something like this, or at least price it. Anyone know any glass tank makers that could bring it in cheap?;)
I like the shape of the Oceanic 58 gallon show, but it's too tall. Half that height would be cool though.If I remember right the 58 show is two feet deep by two feet tall by three feet long, roughly. I'd just want it half that height, or even a bit less.
BUt Oceanic would charge me three times more for this tank than a new 58Show. Outrageously expensive, they are.
I want glass, not acrylic.
I like the shape of the Oceanic 58 gallon show, but it's too tall. Half that height would be cool though.If I remember right the 58 show is two feet deep by two feet tall by three feet long, roughly. I'd just want it half that height, or even a bit less.
BUt Oceanic would charge me three times more for this tank than a new 58Show. Outrageously expensive, they are.
I want glass, not acrylic.
Hi Ed,
The Oceanic 58 tanks are 18inches wide X 21 inches tall X 36 inches long. The 30 breeders or 40 breeders are the same foot print but are only 14 inches tall or 16 inches tall. I've priced the 40 breeders tobe around 90 US dollars locally. For that price it is the tank combo- tank, glass top, and light strip. I've been thinking about getting a few for growout.
The Oceanic 58 tanks are 18inches wide X 21 inches tall X 36 inches long. The 30 breeders or 40 breeders are the same foot print but are only 14 inches tall or 16 inches tall. I've priced the 40 breeders tobe around 90 US dollars locally. For that price it is the tank combo- tank, glass top, and light strip. I've been thinking about getting a few for growout.
I agree with what's been said before, just thought I'd add one thing. Wouldn't the pebble sand be a bit rough on the Zebras when they dig?
I have fine sand in my tanks, and I have big sand dunes in different places every morning, so mine dig a lot! I'd think the pebbles would prevent them from digging as much as they like, as I would think it would be a bit rough on their bellies?
I have fine sand in my tanks, and I have big sand dunes in different places every morning, so mine dig a lot! I'd think the pebbles would prevent them from digging as much as they like, as I would think it would be a bit rough on their bellies?
Andrew,
pretty much agree with everything that has been said. If you are planning to grow Zebras out you can probably put a dozen in there with out a problem. Just provide plenty of hiding places with rocks and stones. If your planning to breed, 5 to 6 is all that is needed in a given tank, 2 males to 3 or 4 females. Extra filtration is always a plus, so provide as much as you can.
Ed,
I was quoted that price at Fish gallery and boutique.
The height of a 40 breeder is about the same as a 20 tall and should be fine. They never have 40s in stock and you would have to order them. Ocassionally I've seen them at petco but for alot more.
I don't believe there is any concern for oxygen since our zebra tanks are very well filtered and has plenty of circulation. My understanding is that if we have good circulation and movement at the surface (splashing from filters) then the gas exchange at the surface will be plenty to achieve saturation. Keep in mind that higher temperature means lower saturation point for oxygen in water. The only concern will be power outages. Keeping the number of fish to a tank lower will be important in that situation.
pretty much agree with everything that has been said. If you are planning to grow Zebras out you can probably put a dozen in there with out a problem. Just provide plenty of hiding places with rocks and stones. If your planning to breed, 5 to 6 is all that is needed in a given tank, 2 males to 3 or 4 females. Extra filtration is always a plus, so provide as much as you can.
Ed,
I was quoted that price at Fish gallery and boutique.
The height of a 40 breeder is about the same as a 20 tall and should be fine. They never have 40s in stock and you would have to order them. Ocassionally I've seen them at petco but for alot more.
I don't believe there is any concern for oxygen since our zebra tanks are very well filtered and has plenty of circulation. My understanding is that if we have good circulation and movement at the surface (splashing from filters) then the gas exchange at the surface will be plenty to achieve saturation. Keep in mind that higher temperature means lower saturation point for oxygen in water. The only concern will be power outages. Keeping the number of fish to a tank lower will be important in that situation.
I don't like the height of the 40 breeder; it seems to me thjat the top three or four inches are wasted. I want a tank no more than 12 inches tall, but with depth front to back. THe 20L I just set up is perfect for a breeding tank but for growout I want the same tank but 24 inches deep front to back instead of 12.
Or 20 if it's currently ten.
I don't want to have to get my elbows wet, is the real reason;)
Or 20 if it's currently ten.
I don't want to have to get my elbows wet, is the real reason;)
The 30 breeder would give you the same dimension in height, but 18 inches front to back. Any wider will be a custom size. The brands that I'm sure don't make that size are All Glass, Oceanic, and Perfecto.
I prefer "running room" in my zebra tanks, and get nearly the same surface area by using a 40 gallon long, which is basically a short 55 gallon tank. They also make those tanks with the same "footprint" in a 33 long. Zebras are going to claim a 2 dimensional territory. If the males can't get far enough away from each other you'll have bickering. Contrary to popular belief, they can actually put a pretty good woopin on each other.
I know people that use air powered sponge filters in their zebra tanks with great success. I personally prefer more flow, and utilize powerheads with open venturis to run the sponges. That allows food to be trapped on the sponges where the zebras can graze it off.
I've had my zebras spawn with only a pair in the tank. Larger groups will increase the spawn frequency, but are not the only way to accomplish your goal either. More room and water volume allow you to push more food at them with less danger of something going terribly wrong. Other than that, most of this is going to be personal aesthetics until the fish start to spawn, IMO.
Barbie
I prefer "running room" in my zebra tanks, and get nearly the same surface area by using a 40 gallon long, which is basically a short 55 gallon tank. They also make those tanks with the same "footprint" in a 33 long. Zebras are going to claim a 2 dimensional territory. If the males can't get far enough away from each other you'll have bickering. Contrary to popular belief, they can actually put a pretty good woopin on each other.
I know people that use air powered sponge filters in their zebra tanks with great success. I personally prefer more flow, and utilize powerheads with open venturis to run the sponges. That allows food to be trapped on the sponges where the zebras can graze it off.
I've had my zebras spawn with only a pair in the tank. Larger groups will increase the spawn frequency, but are not the only way to accomplish your goal either. More room and water volume allow you to push more food at them with less danger of something going terribly wrong. Other than that, most of this is going to be personal aesthetics until the fish start to spawn, IMO.
Barbie
[url=http://www.plecos.com][img]http://plecos.com/plecosbanner.gif[/img][/url]
-
Andrew C
- Obsessed!!
- Posts: 251
- Joined: Sat Jan 22, 2005 8:52 pm
- Location: Bridge Of Weir, Scotland, UK.
Thanks all.
Here is some pictures of my current set up, the flower pot is for a solitary female apisto who lost her mate:
The tank is a bit barren just now:
<img src="http://img2.uploadimages.net/141375Zebr ... Tank-2.jpg"/>
The male in his cave that he always uses (one with the tail hanging out):
<img src="http://img2.uploadimages.net/663499Zebr ... Tank-1.jpg"/>
A female hiding out under sponge filter:
<img src="http://img2.uploadimages.net/626936Zebr ... Tank-4.jpg"/>
I have an external Eheim that i will add to the tank this weekend to give the tank more filtration.
And will also make some caves for the tank, the ones i have i recently got from Dr Gribb.
I have not been checking the zebra tank for Nitrate.
I give their tank 40% weekly water changes, because they come from fast flowing rivers and are used to lots of fresh water.
When i get the Eheim working on the tank i start conditioning the zebras. Just now, they mainly get a Tetra Sinking Tablet for catfish after lights out, as when i put some frozen food in the tank, when feeding my other fish, the females come out and take a bit, but the rest always gets left and i usually have to sypthon out the uneaten food.
Is breeding zebras down to; good feeding, a well filtered tank and patience ?
Here is some pictures of my current set up, the flower pot is for a solitary female apisto who lost her mate:
The tank is a bit barren just now:
<img src="http://img2.uploadimages.net/141375Zebr ... Tank-2.jpg"/>
The male in his cave that he always uses (one with the tail hanging out):
<img src="http://img2.uploadimages.net/663499Zebr ... Tank-1.jpg"/>
A female hiding out under sponge filter:
<img src="http://img2.uploadimages.net/626936Zebr ... Tank-4.jpg"/>
I have an external Eheim that i will add to the tank this weekend to give the tank more filtration.
And will also make some caves for the tank, the ones i have i recently got from Dr Gribb.
I have not been checking the zebra tank for Nitrate.
I give their tank 40% weekly water changes, because they come from fast flowing rivers and are used to lots of fresh water.
When i get the Eheim working on the tank i start conditioning the zebras. Just now, they mainly get a Tetra Sinking Tablet for catfish after lights out, as when i put some frozen food in the tank, when feeding my other fish, the females come out and take a bit, but the rest always gets left and i usually have to sypthon out the uneaten food.
Is breeding zebras down to; good feeding, a well filtered tank and patience ?
Last edited by Andrew C on Sat Feb 05, 2005 1:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
Andrew C,
Should be a pretty good set up after you add your external filter,use a good medium like superex.
My only concern is the pea gravel. I myself use such a lot of different foods, a lot of which disintegrate into a powder on the bottom, such as various tablet foods , catfish pellets etc. About year ago I lost 5 zebras who were in a tank of their own, from food pollution in the gravel. If you really wanted to have gravel , having 1 to 2 mm gravel would be better than having pea gravel .
All my plec tanks are bare bottomed, through past experiences not through choice. In each tank I have converted a quarter of each tank to be an undergravel system with clay balls(pea sized), powdered with a venturi powerhead ( this gives water movement as well as aeration ) . I also use a sponge filter in each tank as extra filtration.
Regards,
Des.
Should be a pretty good set up after you add your external filter,use a good medium like superex.
My only concern is the pea gravel. I myself use such a lot of different foods, a lot of which disintegrate into a powder on the bottom, such as various tablet foods , catfish pellets etc. About year ago I lost 5 zebras who were in a tank of their own, from food pollution in the gravel. If you really wanted to have gravel , having 1 to 2 mm gravel would be better than having pea gravel .
All my plec tanks are bare bottomed, through past experiences not through choice. In each tank I have converted a quarter of each tank to be an undergravel system with clay balls(pea sized), powdered with a venturi powerhead ( this gives water movement as well as aeration ) . I also use a sponge filter in each tank as extra filtration.
Regards,
Des.
My only advice would be to increase to cover for your zebras. This should help them feel more secure. Afterall, they are often found 20 feet below the surface in the Xingu.
